We have learnt a new Arabic word, we have known the word for a car for a long time it is ‘sayaara’ which is useful, well last week we thought our friends were talking about a hiring car to go to the Bekaa valley, well they were, and we were to pay for a car to go there. But we were going to the Bekaa valley to visit some refugee Syrian families, and the word for a visit is ‘ziara’. We need a car, sayaara, to visit, ziara, some people in the Bekaa the conversation became a bit confused for a while.
Now when I say refugee families in the Bekaa I am not wrong but this is not what you might think, and this is the new situation of many displaced people and a somewhat politically difficult one. These refugees fled a war in Syria and landed in Lebanon with nothing much. But that was now 4 or even 8 years ago and they have lived here now for a significant time. Their homes have developed, they have electricity (when it works) fridges, heaters and satellite televisions. They do seasonal work in the fields and building sites, and receive UN support (some). The health and education situation is poor and unreliable but looking at Syria it is just the same there. Their homes here are made of wood and tarpaulins and the ground gets muddy in the winter, but this is not so different to where they came from, for many of them were poor Syrians before they were poor refugees in Lebanon. Inside their tents they have over the years become organised, with the kitchen having shelves and storage jars. The walls especially in the front room where guests like us go, are covered in decorative materials and there are carpets on the floor, they have a several rooms and you soon forget it is made of tarpaulins. In fact in the tents of the Bekaa the situation for most of the year is better than in the poor tenements of Beirut around where we live. Although they are labelled as refugees and the Lebanese want them to leave this place, in their own minds the Syrians are at home here in the Bekaa valley in their tented houses. This is their future now and they just wish they could get rid of the label ‘Refugee’ and carry on living without being in a political argument about where they should live. There is no where else for them to go, there is no room in the world for this number of people.
We go to visit some of these tents with a Syrian Friend who has hundreds of cousins living in a couple of camps in the Bekaa valley, the best agricultural land in the region. These camps are informal groups of tents usually around 30-50 tents in a field, the UN has built latrines and cesspits, there is electricity and the access roads do get muddy but on our visit had just been covered in fresh chippings. I even noticed in one camp one of the tents had been converted into a garage and there were a couple of old 4x4 cars parked under a UNICEF tarpaulin, some people are doing alright here.
The format of a visit is familiar now it is repeated many times. We arrive and park the car and we are ushered into a tent; we take off our shoes in the first room and walk into a carpeted room with curtain material lining the walls and ceilings, the cushions are quickly arranged and as guests we are given the most comfortable cushions and sit down first. The host then sits down and conversation starts, this is in Arabic so we are just observers taking note of when our names are mentioned so we can smile and nod appropriately.
There will have been a phone call before we arrived so there will be the man of the house as well as the lady. As we talk more people appear and of course the children appear. Quietly they gather around and without much fuss we have tent full of perhaps 12 people and as many children.
Probably in the first visit we will meet a large important person and he will be involved in the conversation very much, we will be introduced and he will be the person who will approve or disapprove of our visit, without his goodwill we will not be free to visit any more places in that camp. I don’t believe this is a formal role but there will be someone who takes on this responsibility. The conversation is good humoured and we make jokes about how he has 3 wives and therefore has 16 children I throw my hands up in horror and everyone laughs. Having negotiated this we are free to visit other tents.
In this next tent the man of the house is elderly and obviously not well enough to work, but he is very happy to see our friend and the lady of the house welcomes us well, again a crowd gathers we sit on one side of the tent with our friend and the man of the house, the ladies and children all sit opposite us near the kitchen. Someone makes some very sweet tea which we drink out of small glasses which seem to be universal across the whole country. At one point our friend will kneel up and his manner changes just a little and I realise he is now teaching from the bible, it is Ramadan the time of Muslim fasting and he is sharing from Mathew 6 where Jesus talks about not making a show of your fasting, and how the attitude of the heart is more important than the appearances.
As I look around the room I feel a great sense of the privilege I have just being here, and because I do not have much language I soak up the atmosphere as my friend talks.
Like any community and this really is a community in a sense we have lost in the UK, most of these people are related and they live close together and their many children play together every day. I look across the sea of faces as my friend talks, they are all different. There is a young lady who has a very young baby, she is quite distracted by the infant in her arms she soes try to smile and engage with the talk but it is difficult to listen carefully she is so distracted. There is another young girl there whose eyes are staring into the distance her hijab frames a beautiful face but her eyes reveal she is away in her thoughts, perhaps the words of Jesus have caused her to dream of a different life. Between these two ladies another face framed by a hijab with a colourful jelabba is listening but very intrigued by us two old English people, especially my wife’s blond hair. Over on the other side there are some older ladies the grandmothers perhaps who are very happy to be surrounded by their family, their wrinkled faces and darker clothing are lightened by the sparkling eyes and easy smiles. One of them has obviously suffered much and is in some pain but still she is amongst her family and is happy to listen to our friend. One of them her eyes are full of pride, I believe she is an aunt of our friend and she is very proud of him as he shares from the Holy Bible and talks about faith. Another young lady sitting in the front is so very engaged she is listening raptly, it is like she has been thirsty for days and finally has some water to drink. As Jesus would say she was receiving ‘living water’ as our friend shared.
In the doorway two young men appeared, I watched them carefully as they were not smiling and feared that they disapproved and might cause a problem, they may have been checking what their wives were doing. They would stand at the door listen and then go out again and then come back. I never worked out whether they were approving of this activity or not, but it was like they could not stay away either, they were curious as well as suspicious. This group of people is a mixture of people who are slowly and carefully learning about Jesus, the centuries of prejudice are slowly being peeled back as they learn a new way of understanding the world. Some of them have really embraced the faith of our friend but others are just curious as they see their friends’ lives become transformed.
Here in these poor houses made from tarpaulins a forgotten people are finding out about a God who has not forgotten them, It is our privilege to see and be a small part of this.